février 2010 : Fennouil (fennel), marinated

Fennel (bulb) is delicious added to many stews and soups. I like it as a side dish. If you can't find fennel at your local grocery store, try a Mediterranean or Mid-eastern market.

Ingredients:

1 bay leaf, 2 sprigs thyme, 1 sprig rosemary, 4 sprigs parsely

1/4 cup olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

6 fennel bulbs, trimmed and coarsely chopped

1/3 cup white wine

juice of 2 lemons

1/4 cup raisins

2 tsp peppercorns

salt

Preparation

Tie the bay leaf, thyme, rosemary and parsley together in a piece of cheese cloth... or do like I almost always do ('cause I almost never have any cheese cloth handy): toss them into the pot and take the stems out before serving the dish.

Heat the olive oil, sauté the garlic until it begins to color a bit. Add the fennel, sauté for about 5 minutes. Stir frequently.

Add enough water to cover the fennel. Add the wine, lemon juice, raisins, peppercorns and salt. Cover and cook until the marinade has cooked down to half the quantity. This takes around 30 minutes.

Remove the fennel to a serving dish and refrigerate it. Drain the marinade into a bowl and chill as well.

To serve: pour the marinade over the fennel, toss to coat. Serve at room temperature!

Bon appétit !

janvier 2010 : Sanglier en daube = wild boar stew (you can substitute pork shoulder)

This dish is popular in the winter months, especially in the Cevennes, where the sanglier population has grown to a point where the beasts are considered an environmental threat. 

Ingredients to serve (at least) 8 people

4 lbs. wild boar or pork shoulder, cut into 3-4” pieces, 2 oz. lard, 1/4 c. flour, 3 squares dark chocolate

Marinade: 1 ½ bottles full bodied red wine (Languedoc or Côtes du Rhône), 1 cup  red wine vinegar*, 1 large onion (chopped), 2 carrots (chopped), 3 shallots (minced), 2 cloves, 2-3 sage leaves, a generous pinch of thyme, 1 bay leaf, 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled, crushed, 7 oz. dry cep mushrooms, 2 tsp. sea salt, ¼ tsp. cracked peppercorns, 1/8 tsp. allspice. [*Other similar recipes omit the vinegar, using only wine and Cognac or Armagnac, with different combinations and proportions of the other ingredients for the marinade.]

PREPARATION

The night before: put the pieces of meat into a large container. Combine all the ingredients for the marinade, stir in 2 tps. salt, then pour the marinade over the meat. Cover and refrigerate overnight. 

The next day:

1. Strain the meat: vegetables in one container, meat in another, marinade in another.

2. Melt the lard in a large oven-proof dish, add the vegetables, cover and cook gently to sweat them for 10 minutes.

3. Pre-heat the oven to 400°.

4. Heat the bacon in a large skillet; when it begins to smoke, add the meat. When brown all over, add the meat to the vegetables. Sift the flour over and stir well. Let it cook a bit, then moisten with the marinade. Bring back to a boil, cover then put into the pre-heated oven for 1 ½ hours or more -- until tender. If using pork, I sometimes use a very low oven and much longer cooking time than for the sanglier: 225° for 4 hours. It's basically the same kind of preparation used for many Mexican pork dishes.

5. While the meat cooks, prepare one of these traditional side dishes: mashed/creamed chestnuts or potatoes with blueberry sauce (or cranberry sauce -- not traditional, but delicious with the sanglier); fresh pasta (tagliatelles); winter squash puree. [Braised greens are another good accompaniment.]

6. Remove the meat pot from the oven, take the meat out of the sauce, cover to keep warm.  Add the chocolate to the sauce left in the pan. Blend with a stick mixer then strain through a fine sieve. Put the meat back into the sauce. Serve warm, sprinkled with toasted pine nuts or pistachios, with the pasta, potatoes, squash or greens on the side...and good bread, for sopping up the sauce.

Bon appétit !

novembre 2009 : a special holiday cocktail, Cévennes style

Chestnuts abound in the Cévennes mountains of France; you can easily find chestnuts products in just about every kind of grocery store. This cocktail is a spin-off of the classic Kir, traditionally made with dry white wine  and crème de cassis.  Made with champagne, it's called a Kir royale. For the cévenol version, substitute chestnut cream (liqueur) for the cassis and you're all set. For yet another taste twist, try using cartagène instead of the cassis. It's similar to French muscat in taste, a bit richer and more velvety. 

Ingredients

2 1/4 ounces champagne

1/4 ounce chestnut cream or chestnut liqueur OR cartagène

Pour the chestnut cream or cartagène into whatever kind of glass you like for champagne, slowly add the champagne and there you have it.

There's a chestnut cocktail recipe using whiskey and chestnut cream on the Cocktail Times web site, with instructions for making your own chestnut cream. Here's the address:

http://cocktailtimes.com/whiskey/

Click on "Chestnut tobby"

octobre 2009 : Riz au lait, au four / Caramelized Rice Pudding, baked

We recently had dinner with a couple from a neighboring village: the mayor and his wife, who runs the little post office adjoining their home! Everything was homemade, right down to the wine. We exchanged recipes for traditional baked rice pudding. A version of Madame La Postière's follows. I also I found a fantastic recipe for baked rice pudding on Sophie's Sucré-Salé web site: http://www.sucre-sale.fr/2006/02/riz-au-lait-cuit-au-four.html

You can also find two excellent rice pudding recipes on the FamousFrenchDesserts website: http://www.famousfrenchdesserts.com/

TRADITIONAL FRENCH CARAMELIZED RICE PUDDING : Ingredients

1 cup round rice (I use aborio when I have it, I've also used Japanese-style rice)

4 cups milk (whole is tastier, low-fat is better for you, life is short...)

1/2 cup sugar

3 T. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 vanilla bean or 1 tsp. vanilla extract: if using the bean, be sure to cut it in half.

Preheat oven to 300°F / 150°C. Prepare a glass or ceramic baking dish by greasing it with a bit of butter.

1. Stir together the milk, rice, sugar, butter, and vanilla.
2. Pour the mixture into the prepared dish. Bake for about 3 hours, stirring occasionally if you wish (not essential). The pudding is good both ways. The sugar caramelizes to form a crust on top.
Serve warm or cold. 

septembre 2009 : Pommes de terre au romarin /Potatoes with rosemary

We're busy getting ready for winter here in the Cévennes. Here's a nice (and easy!) transition dish that goes nicely with all those late summer tomatoes ripening in the garden.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon olive oil

2-3 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary

2 large potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/3 inch thick

coarse sea salt

Heat oven to 425. Drizzle a baking dish with the olive oil and rosemary. I like to use a dish that's large enough for all the potatoes slices to form a single layer only. Add the sliced potatoes, turning them to coat with the olive oil and rosemary. Salt lightly. Bake until the potatoes are tender, anywhere from 30-45 minutes, depending upon the type of potatoes used. Thinly sliced onion rings are a tasty addition to the dish.


août 2009 : Petites galettes de blettes ou d'épinards (Swiss chard or spinach galettes)

This is a recipe that's more typically Italian than French. However it's also found in some regions of France, probably brought in by Italian immigrants during the Mussolini years. 

Ingredients

1 pound chard or spinach

water for boiling the greens

fine sea salt + ground pepper

2 large slices stale bread

2 scallions or small onions

1 garlic clove or the equivalent in dry, minced garlic

1 T. chopped fresh rosemary

1 T. chopped fresh thyme, sage, bay, or mint (or any combination you wish)

1 T. chopped parsley

2 eggs

1/4 cup grated Parmesan

olive oil

Wash the greens; drain. Remove any thick stems. Boil in a large pot of salted water until tender (not long). Drain, run under cold water to cool, then squeeze the greens hard to remove excess water.

Soak bread in cold water to soften. Squeeze to remove water, then measure out 1/2 bread.

Chop scallions or onions, garlic, herbs, parsley. Mix together.

Put 2/3 of the greens in a food processor. Add scallion mixture and chop.

Add eggs, soaked bread, Parmesan, salt and pepper (to taste). Process to smooth paste.

Heat 1 T. olive oil in skillet over moderate heat (or whatever works best for your skillet). Place silver dollar sized mounds of mixture in skillet, flattening a bit. Cook until lightly browned on the underside (1-3 minutes), then flip over to cook other side. Drain on paper towels. Serve warm. We like them as appetizers, with yogurt, tzatziki or fromage blanc, but they're tasty by themselves, too. A small slice of tomato on top makes the galettes a delicious side dish for a main course.


avril 2009 : Ragoût de bœuf aux cèpes (Beef stew with mushrooms)

This is a recipe I cut out of a French newspaper many years ago. It's wonderful! You can substitute other dried mushrooms for the cèpes if necessary.

Cooking Time = around 2 1/2 hours

Ingredients

2 pounds stew beef, cut into 2" cubes, with some fat left on

1 good-sized handful of dried cèpes

2 slices thick bacon

2 onions, thinly sliced

1/2 bottle of red wine

3 T. flour

2 cubes beef bouillon (adjust amount if necessary, depending on kind used)

water, thyme, bay leaves, butter, salt, pepper

You can substitute oil for the butter if you prefer.

Instructions

Melt the butter in a large dutch oven. Brown the beef in the butter, then add the sliced onions. Salt and pepper, add the flour and stir well. Slowly add the red wine and then the bouillon. Add one cup water.

Cut the bacon into small pieces, add to the stew along with some thyme and bay leaves (amount depends on your taste preference).

Next add the dried mushrooms. Let everything stew over low heat for at least 2 hours, adding water if necessary. 

This dish is even better the next day, so you can prepare the night before  or in the morning in a crock pot before heading off to work. 

It's traditionally served with small potatoes, but I prefer it with polenta... and a full bodied red wine!


mars 2009 : Apple Tart (Tarte aux pommes)

This is a traditional French tart, a lovely but nonetheless quick dessert to prepare before spring and summer fruits are available at the market. You can use a purchased or homemade crust (instructions follow for a homemade pâte brisée).

Ingredients

One 10-inch tart shell, partially baked

2-3 apples: washed, cored and very thinly sliced -- peels on if you wish (the French usually peel them)

1/4 - 1/2 cup jam or jelly: apple or plum are nice, but just about anything works

Raisins and/or nuts (both are optional)

Instructions

Pre-heat oven to 400°F (around 200°C).

If using a purchased pie crust, roll it out carefully onto a pizza pan or other large, flat baking surface. I like to use my cast iron skillet !

If using a homemade crust, choose your favorire recipe for a one-layer crust, or make the following dough (enough for one 10-inch tart shell):

8 tablespoons butter

1 cup flour

pinch of salt

2-3 tablespoons water

Cut the butter into small pieces and place in freezer for 5 minutes.

Put the chilled butter, the flour and the salt into a bowl or a food processor. Process or cut together until it like cornmeal. If not using a processor, don't be shy about using your fingers! It's more efficient than a pastry cutter and much more fun!

Pull the mixture together with the heel of you hand to mix the butter and flour smoothly together. Gather it all up into a ball and flatten. Wrap in baking paper or wax paper and refrigerate for about 15 minutes.

On a floured surface, roll the dough to about a 12-inch circle. Line your pan of choice with the dough. Prick the bottom of the shell and refrigerate or freeze for at least 2 hours...until you're ready to bake it. When I'm in a hurry, I skip this. Line the shell with aluminum foil or baking paper weighted down with beans or rice and partially bake in a 400°F (around 200°C) oven for 15 minutes. Remove from oven, removing the beans/rice and foil/baking paper.

Line the shell with the apple slices. If using raisins and/or nuts, sprinkle them over the apple slices. Melt the jam or jelly and brush atop the fruit.

Bake the tart in a 400°F oven (around 200°C) for about 30 minutes. 

Alternative baking method: First bake the tart with apple slices (+ raisins and nuts if using) for around 30 minutes. Remove from oven and  brush on the melted jam or  jelly. Serve warm or at room temperature. 


février 2009 : Poached Eggs with Tomatoes and Herbs

Serves 2 - 4 people

Easy, inexpensive, delicious in all seasons – one of our favorites

Ingredients

1 large can of peeled tomatoes or 6 fresh tomatoes

4 eggs

salt & pepper

1 garlic clove, minced, or ½ tsp dried garlic

1 tsp herbes de Provence (or to taste)

Olive oil

Fresh parsley, chopped (optional)

Preparation

If using canned tomatoes, break them up with your hands or the back of a fork. If using fresh tomatoes, core and chop them.

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a medium skillet. Add the tomatoes, garlic, salt, pepper and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes break down, about 10-15 minutes. Add parsley if using. Stir.

Break the eggs one by one over the tomato mixture. Cover and simmer over very low heat for 5-10 minutes, depending on how hard you want your eggs.

Drizzle with a bit of olive oil and serve with crusty bread and a green salad.

Alternately, you can prepare the tomato mixture in an oven-proof skillet, crack the eggs over the tomatoes, top with some grated Parmesan or Gruyere, then bake uncovered at 350 ° (or broil) until eggs are set and cheese melted. Drizzle a bit of olive oil over the dish before serving with crusty bread and a green salad.


janvier 2009: Gratin de chou-fleur, spiced up

This is a versatile and inexpensive winter recipe. It’s delicious as a first course or as a side dish, with sausages or roast chicken. For a vegetarian main dish, serve over rice or pasta. You can also serve it as a soup; instructions follow.

Ingredients

1 large cauliflower (1½ to 2 pounds), rinsed and separated into florets

salt, preferably coarse sea salt

3 T. olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ to ¾ cup tomato sauce or tomato pulp (fresh or canned)

chili pepper flakes, to taste

½ cup grated Parmesan or Gruyère


Instructions 

Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add 1 tablespoon salt and the cauliflower. Cook until almost soft, around 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a skillet large enough to eventually hold the cauliflower and the sauce together. Add the garlic to the olive oil and cook over moderate heat until the garlic is just barely golden. Add the tomato sauce or pulp, 1 tablespoon of sea salt and the chili pepper flakes. Stir and cook over moderate heat for 3 to 4 minutes.

Drain the cauliflower, saving the cooking liquid. Rinse the  cauliflower with cold water.

Add the cauliflower and 1 cup of the cooking liquid to the tomato mixture in the skillet. Continue cooking over low to moderate heat, uncovered and stirring occasionally, adding more cooking liquid if necessary, until the cauliflower is soft and the sauce is creamy.

You can serve the dish as is at this point, instead of making it into a gratin: just grate some cheese over each serving. For a gratin: pour the mixture into a gratin dish, using a fork to break the cauliflower into smaller pieces or to crush, if you wish. Sprinkle with grated cheese and put under the broiler for five minutes. If your oven doesn’t have a broiler, bake the gratin in the oven for 10-15 minutes at 400°F (around 200°C).

For soup, prepare the recipe as indicated. When the cauliflower-tomato mixture is creamy, add 3 cups low-salt vegetable or chicken bouillon. Taste and adjust the seasonings as necessary. Purée the mixture; serve with thick slices of bread and grated cheese.



décembre 2008: Rabbit Civet (Jugged Hare)
a dish for the hale and hearty chefs out there, 
with a "grand merci" to the Fitou wine folks for the recipe idea.
If you can't find hare or simply don't want to eat hare, you can substitute chicken... or wild boar. Correct the indicated cooking time as necessary.

Ingredients
1 hare / rabbit, cut into pieces
1 liter (1 bottle) of Fitou or another hearty red wine
1 garlic clove, minced
1 shallot, minced
3 cloves
1 bouquet garni
1 small glass Port wine
3 medium onions, chopped
20 tree onions or pearl onions, peeled
250g chopped bacon or lardons (1/2 lb), can be omitted for a healthier dish
2 tblsp flour
50 g (1.7 oz) butter or a combination of butter and oil
salt and pepper or peppercorns to taste
250 g mushrooms (1/2 lb) or a good handful of dried mushrooms

Preparation
1. Make the marinade: combine the Port, one of the minced onions, the minced garlic and shallot, bouquet garni, cloves and half the red wine.
2. Pour over the rabbit pieces in a glass bowl, cover and let marinate for 24 hours, turning meat occasionally.
3. In a large, heavy pot (like a dutch oven), sautee the remaining 2 minced onions in butter or a combination of butter and oil.
4. Add the bacon or lardons if using. Remove them from the pot and set aside.
5. Pat dry the rabbit pieces, then brown them in the pot.  Sprinkle with flour.
6. Strain the marinade (or not), then add it to the pot with the rest of the wine, salt and pepper or peppercorns. Simmer covered for 2 hours. Alternatively, you could use a slow cooker; check manufacturer's instructions for stewing times. We let our civets simmer on top of the wood-burning stove!
7. Meanwhile, wash the mushrooms and chop the stems. Sautee the stems in a bit of oil or butter, along with the tree onions sprinkled with sugar.
8. Add the mushroom caps and stems and onion sautee to the civet pot towards the end of cooking. If you're using dry mushrooms, you can add them dry to the pot at the same time you add the rabbit. Add the small onions towards the end, however, or they'll lose their shape. You can also toss in the lardons at the end if you wish.
9. Correct the seasoning if necessary.

Serve hot with polenta (southern French style) or with potatoes (also French). Tasty, too, with rice or noodles. A good crusty bread is a must to sop up the juices. Fitou or another robust red wine marries well with this dish.

Miam-miam !
-------------------------

novembre 2008: Brandade
for Paul, who requested a new recipe today!

Brandade has been a favorite of mine ever since I tasted it at an open-air market in Paris several years ago. It came in the form of little codfish balls, fried but not at all greasy. The chef was of Portuguese decent. He explained to me that the French version of brandade wasn't normally shaped into balls, but rather served as a paste. Since I've found it in many restaurants, where it's served as a first course, often in the form of a gratin.

The recipes below make an excellent paste that can be served on toast points, in choux cups (puff pastry), or in individual gratin dishes -- put them under a broiler for a short time to lightly brown the tops. 

For the first recipe, if you make it a bit stiffer by using less milk and/or adding more potatoes, then you can form the final mixture into balls, then bake or fry them Portuguese-style.

Different versions of brandade can be found all around the Mediterranean, as well as in Brazil and (yes) New England. If you live in the Pacific NW, check PFI-type stores for salted codfish. You can also find the stuff in wooden boxes in more typical grocery stores, often in the freezer section. It's a snap to find in France, so if that's where you live, no worries.

Two more notes on brandade, then on to the recipes: cod is apparently being fished out, which means that there are ecologinal concerns to be considered here. Research and eat smart.

And finally: there's an excellent French film loosely based on codfishing. It stars Daniel Auteuil and Juliette Binoche. Its title: "La Veuve de Saint Pierre." "Veuve" means "codfish" in French; it's also used to refer to a guillotine. Peak your interest?

Now for the recipes.

Brandade I

Ingredients:

Salted cod fillet (I'd use up to a pound)

1 c. milk

3 cloves garlic

1 ½  cups potatoes, peeled, diced and boiled till tender

olive oil

salt and pepper

 

Soak the salted cod in water in the fridge for 24 hours; change the water and soak again for 24 hours. (Change water more often if possible.) Discard the water. Heat the fish and the 3 cloves garlic in 1 cup milk for about 10 minutes in a skillet.

 

Put the soaked, salted cod, milk, garlic cloves and potatoes in the bowl of a food processor. Blend and drizzle in olive oil until it reaches the consistency of mashed potatoes. Add salt and pepper to taste. 


Brandade II (no potatoes in this one)

Ingredients

8 ounces salt cod

2 garlic cloves, peeled and coarsely chopped

2/3 cup heated olive oil

1/2 cup boiling milk

1/4 cup heated heavy cream


Put the salt cod in a large bowl of trickling cold water for 1 to 2 hours. Keep it refrigerated overnight in cold water. Drain.

Put the cod and garlic into a small sauce pan and cover with cold water. Bring this to a boil and poach for 20 minutes in just barely simmering water. Drain.

In a food processor: process the cod/garlic for 1 minute. With the motor running, drizzle the hot oil and milk alternately through the feed tube. Scrape as necessary.

Reheat the brandade over low heat, gradually stirring in the hot cream.

Set aside to cool. Taste and correct seasoning.

miam-miam




octobre 2008:
Tarte à la tomate

1 single savory piecrust, brisée or feuilletée

Dijon-style mustard

gruyere cheese, grated

black or white ground pepper (optional)

tomato slices

olive oil

fresh rosemary and/or thyme, finely chopped

 

1. Pre-heat the oven to 425°F for an American oven / 210°C (th. 7) for a French oven.

2. Unroll the pie crust onto the pie plate; trim off the excess paper if using a French ready-made crust. I've never used a ready-made American piecrust, so don't know if you leave the paper on or take it off.

3. Spread a thin layer of mustard over the crust.

4. Cover the mustard with grated cheese (the amount is up to you).

5. Cover the cheese with tomato slices.

6. Season with pepper, if using, then with the rosemary and/or thyme (add a few black olives if you wish). If you don’t have fresh herbs, just use some dried herbes de Provence

7. For the final touch, drizzle the tart with a bit of olive oil.

8. Bake until golden brown, anywhere from 15-25 minutes, depending on your oven.

 

The tarte à la tomate is best eaten hot or warm, while the crust is still crunchy. This is a fantastic first course or even a light meal when combined with a green salad, some bread and a glass of wine.

Miam-miam.

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