Montpellier and the Languedoc-Roussillon were a coup de cœur for me, love at
first sight. When I arrived in the fall of 1995 to teach at one of the
universities, I felt instantly at home. Bags in tow, I wandered from the train
station through busy cobbled streets, across the lively Place de la
Comédie, then into the old city center (la
vieille ville) in search of the apartment I
had rented from a colleague. Jetlagged, I got lost in the winding streets, but
was definitely smitten with this charming Mediterranean city. The passing years
have only increased my feelings.
La
vieille ville is a gem of lovely streets, shops, cafes and terraces
that invite you to stop and linger. The city has a long and rich history, from
its modest beginnings in the 10th century to its present status as
one of France’s fastest growing communities. Its dance and film festivals have
gained international renown.
Be sure to contact the tourist office before visiting:
You will find a wealth of useful information there and be able to sign up for a guided
walking tour of the city. You have to reserve in advance for a tour in English,
with a more limited schedule than the tours given in French. The tours in French are more frequent and sometimes allow you to join at the last minute. No matter the language
you choose, the tour is well worth your time and you’ll be taken to interesting
places to which you would otherwise have no access.
Montpellier is small enough to
visit on foot and a great little city to wander. There’s always something to
see and do. Weekends are particularly good times to sit and people watch from
one of the many restaurant, cafe or bistro terraces. If the Place de la
Comédie feels too touristy for you, try one
of the little places by the Saint
Pierre Cathedral or the Eglise Sainte-Anne (now an art gallery), or next to the
Préfecture, the Marché
aux fleurs (Place Jean-Jaurès), or the more
modern Antigone.
Open-air markets can be found in
several spots – Les Halles in the old
city center is open every morning, while the organic market at the Arceaux
takes place Saturday mornings. On Sunday mornings, there is a marché
paysan in the Antigone and a large flea
market on the Esplanade Mosson, a bit west of the city, just south of the
Paillade.
If you want to explore sites
outside the city limits, check the Tram (very efficient) and bus schedules;
there are links on the Tourist Office web site. You can purchase a pass on the
web site, but it’s not cost efficient if you’re only staying a day or two in
Montpellier. It’s better to purchase single tickets. Be sure to punch your
ticket (composter) when you board: put
it into the orange meter (composteur)
located in the vehicle to have it stamped with the time of boarding. Then hold
onto that stamped ticket in case you’re asked for proof that you actually
purchased a ticket and didn’t just hop on freeloader style. Good to know: you
usually need a ticket for the return trip as well.
You can find detailed information about sites around Montpellier in Michelin’s Guide Vert/Green Guide for the Languedoc-Roussillon region. It’s excellent and available in several languages. For personal recommendations of places to visit while in Montpellier, check below for a short list of sites and activities that my English-speaking colleagues and clients have consistently enjoyed over the years.
Recommendations of places to
see in the city:
La Place de la Comédie
L’Esplanade
The Corum
The Antigone
L’Opéra
La Fontaine des Trois Grâces
La Place de la Canourgue
Notre Dame des Tables
Promenade du Peyrou
Arc de triomphe
Cathédrale Saint-Pierre
Faculté de médecine (where Rabelais was a student)
Jardin des Plantes (the oldest in France)
Marché aux fleurs
Les Halles
Fabre Museum
Languedocien Museum
Eglise Ste-Anne (private exhibitions)
Around Montpellier
The Mediterranean Sea: Palavas and nearby Maguelone Cathedral, La Grande
Motte (strange), Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
St. Guilhem-le-Désert Abbey
and the Grottes de Clamouse/Pont du Diable
The Camargue nature preserve
Aigues-Mortes (Saint Louis’ walled city)
Nîmes for its ancient Roman ruins (accessible by car or
train)
Carcassonne (highly touristed but very impressive, accessible by
car or train)
The Pic Saint-Loup (for hiking and wine tasting)
Grotte des Demoiselles and the small city of Ganges
The Cevennes Mountains
